Twin Coast Cycle Trail (Pou Herenga Tai)
An 87km bike trail that crosses the island from Opua on the east coast, to Horeke, on the upper reaches of the Hokianga Harbour on the west coast. Passing through some of New Zealand's earliest Maori and pioneer settlements, native bush, farmland, harbours, estuaries, rivers, old railway tracks, suspension bridge, tunnels and wetlands.
A good riding surface and nothing too strenuous if riding from east to west - suitable for all ages, and abilities. Complete the track from coast to coast, or utilise a shuttle service to tailor the ride to suit.
If fit you could ride the trail in a day, but most people opt for two days. Accommodation is available along the trail, although we opted to stay at "Waterline" a delightful bach at Kohukohu on the Hokianga Harbour.
Day One: We drove to Kaikohe, a pre-arranged shuttle transporting us and our bikes to the start at Opua, a pretty harbourside settlement. Riding back to the car, gave us the freedom to take as long as we liked, as opposed to being picked up at the end and having a deadline to meet.
Although only 45kms, allow about 4 hours of riding. Traversing through farmland was like the riding through the pages of storybook "Old McDonald's Farm", with farm animals of every description alongside the trail. The first section of the ride is the most scenic; while the latter part was a bit of a slog into a headwind. The suspension bridges a good spot to stop for a picnic lunch.
Back at the car, we headed to nearby Ngawha Hot Springs for a soak in the therapeutic, thermal waters, renowned for healing properties. In the midst of a geothermal area, there are more than a dozen pools from 32 – 50 degrees, with interesting names such as Bulldog, (dark black in colour & the hottest) Tanemahutu, Doctor, Baby, Solomon and Favourite.
Day Two: We arranged for a shuttle to pick us up from Horeke (end of the trail) and drop us at Kaikohe to complete the remaining 42 kms - again riding back to the car. It is definitely advisable to ride this section from east to west to avoid a long strenuous uphill slog.
This is a shorter and more interesting day, around 3 – 3 ½ hrs riding through the historic 80m rail tunnel built in 1915, and past Lake Omapere. The trail takes you right past the doorway of a little café at Okaihau, reason enough to stop for a coffee and home baking for morning tea.
From the plateau the trail meanders through farmland before dropping down a long steep-ish, but not difficult section, then follows a pretty stream, with nice picnic stops. The final section along a 1200m boardwalk through mangroves and wetlands. Cold drinks at Horeke Tavern, one of NZ's oldest establishments seemed a fitting way to end the two-day adventure.
Just down the road, overlooking the Hokianga Harbour, is Mangungu Mission - site of the largest signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, with 70 Maori Chiefs signing New Zealand's Founding Document in 1840 before a crowd of 3,000 people.
I can recommend Top Trail Shuttle service for pick ups & transfers: Click HERE:
Twin Coast Cycle Trail Website, Click HERE
p.s. The track is very exposed, so in the heat of summer, I would recommend an early start.


Pogies. When the weather gets chilly over the winter months, or you're paddling in the deep south when it can be cold at any time of the year, quality neoprene pogies will keep your hands toasty warm and dry. Velcro the pogies around the paddle shaft then simply slip your hands through to grip your paddle. The wide wrist opening makes it easy to get your hands in or out quickly.


When camping with access to the car, this 3 burner gas cooker is perfect. It even has a rack for cooking toast and the lid acts as a wind shield. The legs unscrew and it folds up into a tidy, compact unit. We have been using this cooker for over 20 years, so a pretty good investment. New models will no doubt have been modified and improved, but we have never had any issues with this one.


really basic, but don't buy two the same size and check that they fit inside each other to save space in your pack. Stainless steel, bullet proof coffee plungers, are a bonus when space is not an issue.


When bigger fold out chairs are not an option due to space or weight, but you don't fancy sitting on the ground all the time, these little beauties are just what you need. They take very little space and when kayaking fit up the pointy nose end especially well. We have had ours for quite a few years and have used them on frequent trips, so I can personally recommmend these Roamer Tri Stools. Available from Kathmandu, you can often pick them up for less than $20. Check them out
At some locations in NZ at certain times of the year, and certain times of the day (especially in Fiordland) sandflies or mosquito's can be a nuisance.



Air mattresses: Double and single styles available, perfect if you are camping close to your vehicle when weight and size not an issue. Lengthwise 185cm is a snug fit in our tent, however many of the new ones are 200 – 215 cm and will not fit in some compact dome tents. Many are also double the height, suitable only for large tents.
Stackable plastic cubes are fantastic to keep all related items together and the car stays nice & tidy. We can fit twelve boxes and access from back and rear doors means you only ever need to move one box to reach what you want.